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There are alot of videos on TJ drums, but yours is the only one on the TJ handbrake cable replacement I have found. So this is an Excellent video for me as I'm just about to do this myself.

Is there another location for this? My 2000 TJ doesn't have this, or I can't find it?

I'm trying to find the fuse the fuel pump goes to but my diagram dose not show it.

Hello. The replacement you mention that now has the black seal. What difference is there with the previous one with the orange tires? Some also put a plate on it in case you lose the turbo so that it doesn't get the actuator wet. Greetings and thanks

Half the content is off-camera.

Great detail!My Honda 50 is 1999 model.That is great tip re:draining bowl and tapping with hammer.My carbs were gushing out fuel and that has fixed it for now! CHEERS from HERE!

Can someone tell me what fuses i plug a relay jumper cable in for a fuel pump bypass

5th gear?

Does this reduce or eliminate engine breaking/compression breaking? My understanding is that when car is not accelerating flaps close and this is felt like engine breaking effect. Especially noticable at low speed. Just wondering if the flaps are not there foes this breaking effect go away.

Nice job of cleaning and recording. Thank you for sharing this!

Your video is much appreciated from someone about to begin this journey. Thank You for sharing your repair.

When this dies, do the dash lights still come up? Recently had the instrument lights go out, running lights, and the radio doesn't dim anymore, I was thinking the multi switch since the hazards still work.

What fuses are for O2 sensor

Exactly what happened to my TJ. Thanks for making the video showing the way.

Thanks for making this video. Seeing it from the backside gets me ready for this job. Looks like dealing with seam sealer and spot welds like all prep work are the most challenging

every time i rebuild the 2056vk turbo, the only thing worn out are the two metal seals on the exhaust side of the impeller. the actual bearing/bushing, o rings, metal seals on the cool side impeller, etc... are all basically new. I still replace everything with the kit though. One turbo with 270k miles on it was leaking so much oil into the exhaust from the two metal seals. they were so worn out, but the actual impeller bearing had no slop at all.

I had the same concern about taking stringers out and warping hull from load of my 220 lb weight inside working on it. If it did warp slightly, it wasn't apparent. My boat has 5 stringers. Looks like they changed the design slightly by 1978. I have a stringer resting on the "keel" as well as the two on either side. Seems like over-kill. I used PL cement to bed them, but it was obvious that they just plunked them down in resin in the factory. I did not bother with the closed cell floatation under the deck as I figured it eventually adds huindreds of lbs to the weight of the boat as it absorbs water. Originally they used open cell foam which was a disasterous water sponge. But even closed cell will do this eventually. If no foam worked for 50 years, it's good enough for me. Chuck knew a thing or two about building boats. I intend to add an access hole in the floor between stringers to open up and suck any residual water out and leave it open in the off season so the black mold can't do it's dirty work below deck. Although I've coated everything underneath with glass, resin and gel coat, I worry about freezing water finding crevices to freeze/expand and break the seal, allowing water back into the stringers.

MIne is 1971. It has a serial # on port side of transom aluminum trim. I've pulled that boat apart entirely down to the fiberglass skin and did not find any other numbers on it. These boats predate decals shown even the number of passengers. I've have 8 people in mine with seats down no problem. I wonder what the real seating capacity would be in eyes of a cop where there is no decal?

Transom shape is by design according to some old fabricator I spoke to. I thought it was warped from stress....possibly was a little as the splash well cap was a bit distorted and had popped the 1 inch brass drain out of its hole making it rot even more. The shape makes it slightly stronger. Ply goes in multiple laminations to follow glass curve . Many boats have flat transoms, Hourstons are convex. In fact, you will find your splash well is about an inch too long when you go to put it back on because your transom will be flatter than factory. I had to trim mine because my transom flattened out slightly when I clamped it.

Yes, I found out the transom is convex by design. I left transom skin in place and clamped 2 laminations of ply in to replicate the shape using numerous big clamps. You have to cut about 2 inches off the keel or you cant get the second lamination in place to clamp it (due to transom shape). Use the popcycle stick method to get templates and cut ply laminations at 1/3 stagering joints. Worked like a damn and it is strong. Lots of guys go for 2 part epoxy. 1708 and normal polyester resin worked for 50 years, so I stayed with that, and it makes things easier.

Mine has a center stringer on that "keel". It was wet when I did the same removal you show here. I had to let it dry for a year before I bedded in the new center stringer. Bedded stringers in PL cement, did the peanut butter radius and wrapped it in 3 stages with 1708 - the last going right to the top of the stringers. Try finding clear Douglas fir - especially during covid wood prices. What a job! I got so damned tired of walking with my feet at 45 degree angle. Because I was using unwaxed to laminate, I went over everything with waxed gelcoat before I put the floor back in. That was a happy day when I at last had a level floor. Did you give up on the project? I wouldn't blame you if you did. It's a brutal job.

PTSD watching this. I have the exact same 1971 version. Started with transom, but different approach. I kept the hull skin intact and only cut out enough of the well to get at the transom. Really no glass on the inside of transom, so it was easy to get in there with a sacrificial chain saw and chisel to get what was left of the transom out. Then did 2 laminations of marine plywood to hull glass using large clamps. I did about 2 inches in ply all the way up to top deck unlike the factory that only went double thickness to the motor mount of transom. Like you, I found that there was no floatation used under the floor (not required back then) and all of the stringers in mine needed replacement. It's been 3 years getting to the point of reassembling it. These were structurally very good boats, but they never intended them to last 50 years. Why they didn't wrap the entire stringers I don't know. I guess it saved them a few bucks on each build. I wrapped the new ones, and coated the under floor with 3 coats of resin so the inevitable fungal decomposition will be delayed until long after I'm gone. I don't know if you completed this job or not. If someone is thinking about taking a project like this on, think twice. If I'd worked at McDonalds for minimum wage for all the hours I put into this boat, I would have earned enough to buy a newer boat that needed no work. If you enjoy countless hours of solitude, risking your relationships, and exposing yourself to unhealthy chemicals and dust....dive right in. I now have a boat that is worth about $10,000 but no one would pay that much for it! Still, it's a very rare boat now and they really have nice lines an are excellent in the rough waters. I'm just putting the trim back on and redoing the wiring today. Tomorrow the original Johnson 85 goes back on. I found this YT video looking for the orientation of the water ski bracket mounting plates. Thanks! I saw them in your post.

Slow and steady wins the race. Excellent videos and thanks for the info.

Thank you very much for such an in depth videos, I need to do this to my 2000 and plan to start this winter.

I did 4.56 on my 2004 TJ wrangler with 33s and it’s a nightmare on the highway 2500rpm at 65mph… I’m thinking of swapping them to 3.73 or 4.10s but I’m leaning on the 3.73s

Why didn't you just buy a new sill 130 lmao. The only way you can fix that junk is with meratic acic a few times and use baking soda with water to neutralize it the por 15 prep but you need to sand for it to stick. Then por15 even where you need to weld you need weldable primer. Your compared to my work mine is 15 years yours 2.5 if your lucky 😅

I see this a lot and let me explain to everyone what is happening. Your putting china crap on your Jeep. Maybe it’s all china crap? The metric is different then standard so the bolt eggs out the brackets. At this point you need the metric bolt with the washer and might need to weld it. Plus the center of the components you need to put small slits in them so when tightened they could never slide back and forth. Make sure the thread are not in the brackets also get longer bolts❤❤❤❤❤

Done in Canada lol owt😂 its called seam sealer good stuff use that jiggle saw lol works great

There is one video and the kid screwed it all up 😂

Uggh it looks like they replaced the traditional mechanical relays with mosfet switches. If the chassis to motor bond goes RIP. 😵😵😵💩

Thanks for the info, my 97 TJ rear wiper stopped working too. I'll start by checking those wires. The light on the front switch stopped working before the wiper itself stopped working, so maybe it is a progressive failure of that switch. The motor looks really clean, so hopefully, it isn't the motor. My window didn't close enough, and the wiper would crash and stop on the rear spare tire. I fixed that problem. It was my Tonneau Cover brackets. My rear window may have shifted over time to further block the closure of the rear window. Further Investigation need. Thanks for the input to resolve the issue.

mAN HOW DID YOU FIND THAT IN THE JUNKYARD? everyone i looked at had a different setup plugup and arrangement

Did you notice any warping after welding please? And guessing that it emits a bit of smoke now - how is it at idle and under acceleration in that respect? Thanks

Which fuse is the reverse tail light on a 2008 dodge ram ??

I have no rear lights. Hazard and turn signals work. No brake lights and rear lights. Brake switch is new, fuses all replaced and good. Could this be my issue?

Hi. A bad sensor can produce white smoke? What was your problem?

The original one is between the airbox and fender?

you would not have made it with out tru tracs. thanks for posting this . if you were spinning your speed would have varied . you stopped at the top and took off with zero spin was really impressive

take engine cover off, take intake hose off, fuel filter is at top of engine right in front of turbo, (3) 10mm torx bolts hold bracket attached to filter on, take those off and take the two screws holding the sensor on the filter off and unplug the sensor connect carfully - lift out filter, take sensor out, replace both o-rings, fill new filter with diesel before installing sensor in new filter. if you need, heat up sensor connect before using much force - plastic can break down over time. align bracket on new filter same as you take it off old. once filter is in and both hoses and sensor are connected, reinstall intake and engine cover.

I have to do this but I am debating just installing a K&N. So what I am unsure about is, will the swirl motor electronics need degreased for the engine to come out of limp? Or does it dry out / burn off ?

Thank you so much I was able to find it because of this video after hours of searching and trying to find out any information from multiple dealerships who never even called back, I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel crd 3.0 for any future comment readers.

Looked more like a 15-20 degree hill ?

Do you have a link where to order this part?

Hope to see an update soon!!

i just upgraded my TJ to 33 inch tires and now am looking to regear. i thought 4.10s would probably put it back to how it felt stock but i really want her to be able to trek through the snow and my long, steep driveway in the same weather... the shop suggested 4.56s.. this hill climb might also persuade me lol. is it awful on the highway at higher RPM and does it make the MPG noticeably worse with the 4.56 versus say 4.10s or something lower? my MPG already went to shit with the bigger tires lol so if it's not that much different... maybe i should just get 4.56 gears. anyway i'll take any advice lol

I have this same noise, except now i get a buzzing noise upon take off now that goes away when i disengage the clutch

I have one im lookin for the hin not on the transom

I already drank up my annual 6 pac...... The Damn old carb keeps overflowing even if the needle and seat is stopping the flow when the top is off. Cleaned it out 5 times now and it still flows over the top.

this turbo resonator is for mercedes vehicles(can be seen on mercedes interface.) how did you install this instead of the kidney shaped stock one on jeep wk 3.0 crd?

Awesome work. very informative. thanks you for efforts spent. i have a question on vgt. i am getting turbo overboost problem on same jeep 3.0 crd. it happens at full engine load with full throttle. we refurbished the actuator and nothing has changed( actually nothing seemed wrong with black actuator).p 0046 code disappeared but we have stil turbo overboost problem. will there be a partially stuck open exhaust ports on turbo? do you thing EGR or a MAP sensor could cause such situations? Freezefrema data shows that, engine was warmed up, pressure read by MAP is 1.5 bar at full throttle when the symptops appeared at that time and then it wend to limp mode. Restart was necessary to recover from limp mode. Low revs are very alive right now and it feels like a remapped engine now. Any comment is highly appreciated. I am lost.